Every wondered what a chemotype was?

B: When referring to essential oils, chemotypes or chemo-forms it means that morphologically identical single species or variety (taxon) can be found possessing different essential oil compositions. For example In North America there are four chemotypes of the wild growing Mentha canadensis L. (2n=96). They are Type 1, oils rich in pulegone and menthone, Type 2, oils rich in cis-and trans-isopulegones, Type 3, oils rich in linalool and Type 4, oils rich in 1,8-cineole and acyclic monoterpenes. However, the compositions of oils of each chemotype are rarely the same. For example Type 1 oils contain varied amounts of pulegone and menthone , sometimes pulegone is the major component and sometimes menthone is the major component;nevertheless, this chemotype relates to the biosynthetic pathway responsible for creating the essential oil composition. The same is true for the other three chemotypes and their representative pathways.
By the way this is a simple group of chemotypes found with M. canadensis. Many other members of the Lamiaceae family can possess more than four chemotypes. Also chemotypes abound in the Asteraceae family 


C:  here is a great explanation of chemotype on wiki: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemotype . Most of it, along with B's great explanation, is over my head, but the following passage from it makes good commonsense to me:

"Because chemotypes are defined only by the most abundant secondary metabolite, they may have little practical meaning as a group of organisms sharing the same trait. Individuals of one chemotype may have vastly different chemical profiles, varying in the abundance of kind of the next most abundant chemical. This means two individuals of the same chemotype could have different impacts on herbivores, pollinators, or resistance to pests. A study by Ken Keefover-Ring and colleagues in 2008 cautioned that, "...this can be a very qualitative assessment of an individual's chemical profile, under which may be hiding significant chemical diversity."[1]"


B:  In the literature a number of reports can be found that refer to the existence of many chemotypes based on the existence of a major component independent of its functional group or its interrelationship with the other components in the oil. This is unfortunate because it causes incorrect interpretation of chemotypic form existence. Remember chemotypes developed strictly for the taxon's survival whether it be to protect it from predators,including herbivores, insects, bacteria and fungi or to act as an attractant for pollinators or fruit eaters to disperse its seeds(not for herbaceous plants but shrubs and trees). The determining factor for characterization of a chemotype is the closeness of the biosynthetic pathway. Another example of the existence of a single chemotype is Hyssopus officinalis which is rich in pinocarvone, pinocamphone and isopinocamphone all of which are closely related from a biosynthetic standpoint. Some oils possess the major components in the following order: isopinocamphone>pinocamphone>pinocarvone while other oils are found suchas pinocamphone>isopinocamphone>pinocarvone or Pinocarvone >pinocamphone >isopinocamphone etc. These are all actually a single chemotype with the expected variance amongst biosynthetically related components.
The existence of a single set of compounds such as alcohols, ketones, aldehydes etc. is not a point of differentiation in an oil to designate a chemotype

 B: Chris, yes it is an over simplification of the chemotype term. All Lavandula angustifolia cultivars are of the same chemotype irrespective of which cultivar, because to the best of my knowledge there have not been any chemoypic forms of L. angustifolia or L .x intermedia found.The formation of linalyl acetate from linalool is literally one biosynthetic step from linalool which is the tertiary alcohol produced as the first characterizing step in the pathway from the diphosphate precursor in the Lavandula genus.However, chemotypes have been found in other Lavandula species but not in lavender or the hybrid lavandin. 

M:  Chris - Did you know the concept of chemotypes was and Aussie idea?

Baker & Smith back in the early 1900's discovered it while working on some of our Eucalyptus species. There are lots of examples within the Family Myrtaceae:

Euc. dives CT cineole & CT piperitone
Melaleuca quinquinervia CT cineole (Niaouli), CT Nerolidol/Linalool (Nerolina) & CT Viridiflorol (MQV)
Melaleuca teritifolia CT cineole, CT citral (a beautiful lemon tea tree)

Shirley Price Skincare - masques to aromatic oil

Educational videos from EO companies

Shirley Price

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6njRITqfy8

Doterra

http://vimeo.com/24951291

Essential oil uses - Perfumery

http://www.firmenich.com/

Essential oil composition - lavenders

Material review, composition of commercial lavenders

linalool, linalyl acetate the principal constituents.

http://kashmirlavender.com/images/docs/perfumerflavoristjuly2007.pdf

 Robert P. Adams and Tonya Yanke, Biology Department, Baylor University

Clinical trials - health anxiety and sub clinical depression

http://www.psychiatry.ox.ac.uk/epct/oxigen

Notes - fatty acids

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatty_acids

Fatty acids are important sources of fuel because, when metabolized, they yield large quantities of ATP. Many cell types can use either glucose or fatty acids for this purpose. In particular, heart and skeletal muscle prefer fatty acids. The brain cannot use fatty acids as a source of fuel; it relies on glucose or ketone bodies.

Herbalism - Symphytum officinale L. (Comfrey) roots -

NOTES:

comfrey (Symphytum officinale L.) roots contain the liver toxic lycopsamine

Essential oils do not contain alkaloids.  Alkaoids however find medical uses in herbalism.

alkaloid
Lycopsamine

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkaloid

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_psychoactive_plants

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medical_cannabis

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/50_Fundamental_Herbs#50_Fundamental_herbs

Ian Brealey

Good Health DVD - Facial massage

Introduction to Sp

The 3 item DVD set

 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Good-Health-Aromatherapy-Massage-Reflexology/dp/B000FS9SK0

Facial massage

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLE9345ACBF6166865

Natural Product communications

http://www.naturalproduct.us/

Essential oils research
http://independent.academia.edu/MonaKananian/Papers/1120308/NPC_Natural_Product_Communications_2007

If you are a student aromatherapist interested in furthering your knowledge or covering the research section of the syllabus this is a good resource.  You can register as an individual member and have access to the archive of article abstracts free of charge. These are well worth a browse.

Ian Brealey

Boswellia carterii (Frankincense) oil - chemistry

http://www.biomedcentral.com/1472-6882/9/6/

Commiphora myrrha (Myrhh) oil - chemistry

http://biomed.papers.upol.cz/pdfs/bio/2005/01/01.pdf

Essential oils - therapeutic properties

The general therapeutic properties attributed to each of the functional groups contained in essential oils is set out in Franchomme & Penoel 2001 p107-131. This is described and expanded by Price 2011 which helpfully is not only in english but also available on the Kindle so very accessible. Franchomme & Penoel associate certain properties with the esters, alcohols etc taking into account the electronegative/positive nature of the molecules coupled with their polar/apolar properties and this serves as a useful general guide. The oils have several effects reflecting the diversity of their constituents.

We certainly are understanding better how the body utilises essential oil constituents. the neutralisation of infection for example besides a direct effect on the germ may involve a direct chemical effect on the body tissues enabling them to preserve cellular chemical communications and integrity and so withstand microbial toxins and dampen inflammation. Because microbes affect a diverse range of body tissues from the gall bladder to the brain this preservative action against the chemical effects of microbes and their toxins consequently translates into a wide range of actions. 

Boswellia carterii (Frankincense) oil and Commiphora myrhha (Myrhh) oils - How and why?

For example - Wound healing with Myrrh and Frankincense in an Aloe Vera gel. "The next day I used a 3% blend of Myrrh and Frankincense in an Aloe Vera gel. I picked Myrrh for its anti-tumor, anti-inflammatory, good for wound qualities, and Frankincense for its analgesic, cicatrizing, immuno-stimulant properties....the skin healed perfectly. Now you cannot even tell he had a gaping hole on the side of his neck, right by his carotid." Saloni Molhatra  www.purearomatherapy.com

Ian Brealey

Herbalism - associations, conferences

http://www.associationofmasterherbalists.co.uk/

 http://www.nimh.org.uk/

Everyday aromatherapy - wellbeing

Natural beauty range - ingredients and labels

 

Footcare - ingredients and labels

 

Aloe Vera - gel range ingredients and labels

 

 

Cosmetics - make your own with Jan Benham

Want to Make Your Own Cosmetics? It’s easier than you think!

by Jan Benham FFHT, MIFPA

Cosmetics are substances used to enhance the appearance or odour of the human body. They are generally mixtures of chemical compounds, some being derived from natural sources, many being synthetic.
In the U.S., the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) which regulates cosmetics, defines cosmetics as "intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions."

Definition from Wikipedia, 2012

My own journey into making cosmetics began back in 1982, as an Aromatherapist and Holistic Health Practitioner; I wanted to be able to mix essential oils not just into carrier oils but also unscented creams and lotions that were free from petroleum by-products and parabens.

They were just not available at that time, so began a life long research that resulted in two books: ``The Creamy Craft of Cosmetic Making``, 1996 and ``The Baby Boomers Beauty Bible``, 2004. At around the same time back in 1995, I also started teaching courses on how to make cosmetics at the Institute of Aromatherapy in Toronto, Canada.

The courses have grown to such an extent that the original cosmetic making courses have developed into a comprehensive cosmetic making diploma course which includes the making of cold pressed soap, makeup (foundation, lipsticks, eye shadows etc), natural perfume and a full range of skin, hair and body care products.

So why make your own Cosmetics?  

·         There are so many people around with allergies, perhaps you are one of those people? With making your own cosmetics you will know exactly what is in them.

·         By using only pure essential oils, natural colourants such as, infused carrot root oil, micas and oxides, herbal extracts and pure natural vegetable oils, such as jojoba and coconut. You can create cosmetics that are safe, environmentally friendly and pure.

·         You do not need to test your products on animals therefore; by making your own cosmetics you do not support the testing on animals that many pharmaceutical companies do.

·         Furthermore, you will also realize huge monetary savings by not purchasing expensive department store brands. The average woman in the UK spends £500 a year buying makeup, 25% of those women spend in the £1000’s. This makes the business of supplying customers with natural alternatives a sure success.

Imagine a healthy and youthful complexion for yourself, family and friends.
Imagine launching a new business selling online, at craft fairs and markets.

Imagine expanding your existing practice, selling your own range of natural products made from scratch.

Today I am giving you a recipe for making 100% natural lipsticks

I wanted to start with lipsticks, as lipsticks are something that we ingest and a person who wears lipstick daily will ingest a couple of kilograms in their lifetime. Lipsticks are usually coloured with FC&D dyes and have so many chemicals added its not funny!

Here is a natural alternative:

Ingredients:

Beeswax 3gms

Candelilla wax (a natural plant wax) 5gms

Shea butter 5gms

Jojoba oil 20gms

Castor oil 20gms

Vitamin E 1 capsule

Method:

Melt the above ingredients in a small heat resistant glass measuring jug placed in boiling water

(double boiler)

When completely melted, add the colourants (I suggest to use one of the recipes below to start with) and mix well.

Pour into lip balm tubes, small makeup pots or a lipstick mould.

Allow to harden in the refrigerator for ½ hour before use.

This recipe base is enough to make 8 -12 lipsticks depending on the size of the pot or tube

Here are three lipstick colours to choose from:

1.      Cinnamon Girl lipstick - 2 tsp. Sienna mica, ¼ tsp red oxide and ¼ tsp zinc oxide. Grind together in a coffee grinder or a mortal and pestle.

2.      Chocolate kisses lipstick – melt a small piece of dark chocolate along with the base and add ½ tsp. Dark brown oxide, ½ tsp Zinc oxide (ground together) plus 10 drops of spearmint organic essential oil.

3.      Passion Lipstick - 2 tsp of Very Coral mica, ¼ tsp red oxide, ¼ Titanium dioxide (ground together).

Lipsticks, moisture cream and soaps made by Jan using all natural ingredients.

We offer CPD FHT and IFPA accredited courses in Holistic skin care and Cosmetic making!

Aromatherapy skincare - products and ranges

Guide to Shirley Price Aromatherapy Skincare

Products and ranges

5601	Aloe vera gel	ALOE VERA
5602	Aloe and seaweed gel	ALOE VERA
5603	Deodorising footcream	FOOTCARE
5604	Exfoliating footcream	FOOTCARE
5605	Foot reflex cream	FOOTCARE
5606	Peppermint gel	FOOTCARE GEL
5607	Foot reflex cream base	FOOTCARE
5608	Relaxing foot cream	FOOTCARE
5609	Warming foot cream	FOOTCARE
5610	arnica gel	GEL
5611	borage gel	GEL
5612	clear aloe gel	GEL
5613	lavender gel	GEL
5614	muscle and joints gel	GEL
5615	neroli gel	GEL
5616	rejuvenating rose gel	GEL
5617	tea tree gel	GEL
5618	vitamin E gel	GEL
5619	almond and sandalwood cream	CREAM
5620	aloe vera cream	CREAM
5621	anticellulite cream	CREAM
5622	arnica cream	CREAM
5623	borage cream	CREAM
5624	calendula cream	CREAM
5625	chamomile cream	CREAM
5626	comfrey cream	CREAM
5627	echinachea cream	CREAM
5628	evening primrose cream	CREAM
5629	exfoliating foot cream	CREAM
5630	frankincense cream	CREAM
5631	hypericum cream	CREAM
5632	tea tree cream	CREAM
5633	vitamin e cream	CREAM
5634	cleansing cream	CLASSIC ROUTINE
5635	cleansing milk	CLASSIC ROUTINE
5636	toning lotion	CLASSIC ROUTINE
5637	pretty serum	CLASSIC ROUTINE
5638	moisture lotion	CLASSIC ROUTINE
5639	moisture cream	CLASSIC ROUTINE
5640	superlight eyecream	CLASSIC ROUTINE
5641	night cream	CLASSIC ROUTINE
5642	natural beauty night cream	NATURAL BEAUTY
5643	Avocado cream base	CLASSIC BASE
5644	carrot oil cream base	CLASSIC BASE
5645	white lotion parabens free	VEGAN BASE
5646	moisture cream parabens free	VEGAN BASE
5647	Moisturising honey masque	MASQUE
5648	minute gel masque	MASQUE
5649	Cypress exfoliating Cream mask	MASQUE
5650	Face off masque	MASQUE
5651	Natural Beauty Facewash	NATURAL BEAUTY
5652	Natural Beauty Facial treat rejuvenator	NATURAL BEAUTY
5653	Hand and body lotion	CLASSIC ROUTINE
5654	jasmine aromatic oil	NATURAL BEAUTY
5655	neroli aromatic oil	NATURAL BEAUTY
5656	rose aromatic oil	NATURAL BEAUTY
5657	Natural Beauty OLEA Cleansing Cream	MOISTURISERS
5658	Natural Beauty 'Hydrating' Moisture Cream	MOISTURISERS
5659	Classic Moisture cream	MOISTURISERS
5660	Natural Beauty 'Nourishing' Moisture Cream	MOISTURISERS
5661	Special A Clear Skin Moisture Cream	MOISTURISERS
5662	Special E Dry skin moisture cream	MOISTURISERS
5663	Scar care moisture cream	MOISTURISERS
5664	Post epilation moisture cream	MOISTURISERS
5665	Special S Airways Cream	MOISTURISERS
5666	Visible veins moisture cream	MOISTURISERS
5667	Natural Beauty Lip Balm Organic	BALMS
5668	Natural Beauty After bath lotion	BALMS
5669	Natural Beauty After shave balm	BALMS
5670	Natural Beauty After Sun milk	BALMS
5671	Peppermint balm	BALMS
5672	Scalp tonic	HAIR
5673	Natural Beauty Shampoo for dry hair	HAIR
5674	Natural Beauty Shampoo for greasy hair	HAIR
5675	Natural Beauty Shampoo for normal hair	HAIR
5676	Natural beauty Hair conditioner	HAIR
5677	Headlice repellant conditioner	HAIR
5678	Headlice shampoo	HAIR
5679	Lavender & Geranium shower gel	HAIR
5680	Natural Body butter base	BASES
5681	Natural Bodywash Wash base	BASES
5682	Natural Shampoo base	BASES
5683	Natural Cream base	BASES
5684	Olea Natural Hair conditioner base	BASES
5685	Organic Liquid Castille soap base	BASES
5686	Natural Lotion Base	BASES
5687	Natural Melt and Pour Soap	BASES
5688	Natural Night cream	BASES
5689	Organic Lip balm	BASES
	Blank green ml
	Blank cream and gold ml
	Blank cream and gold g
	Blank green g