The carrier oils or white lotion is where aromatherapy meets herbalism.
The majority of an aromatherapy blend 98-99% consists of the
vegetable oils used to carry the blend. The oils or white lotion can
be chosen to be neutral, simply to aid absorbtion of the oils or
for their therapeutic and particularly skin nourishing properties in cases
of eczema or inflammation - for example calendula macerated in
a sunflower oil. Also the carriers can be used on their own
for particular purposes without essential oils.
The carrier oil used for each treatment should therefore be
carefully chosen to ensure that it not only compliments the
essential oil, but is also appropriate to the condition. Bearing in
mind that the carrier oil will usually make up about 97% of the
mixture, the importance of using a therapeutically suitable, quality
oil should not be overlooked.
Carrier oils have a limited shelf life of about 6 months as they all
oxidise (combine with oxygen) sooner or later on exposure to air.
For this reason it is advisable to mix oils as they are required.
Alternatively, the anti-oxidant properties of wheatgerm can be
used. Incorporating a 5-10% blend of wheatgerm can help to
prevent oxidation, allowing the mixture a longer shelf life.
In general we can say that the commonly used carrier oils
Almond Oil, Grapeseed, Sunflower oils and White Lotion are
without therapuetic properties and are chosen to carry the oils
efficiently into the skin.
Jojoba is an interesting oil in that it is an efficient carrier
but also during the first 12 months of its life has interesting
skincare therapeutic properties akin to the macerated oils like
calendula, carrot and hypericum.
Rosehip stands out as excellent for scar care.
Carrier Oils
This section looks at the following carrier oils:
Almond, Sweet (Prunus amygdalus var. dulcis)
Apricot Kernel (Prunus armeniaca)
Avocado (Persea americana)
Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
Carrot (Daucus carota)
Coconut (Cocos nucifera)
Evening Primrose(Oenothera biennis)
Grapeseed (Vitis vinifera)
Hazelnut (Corylus avellana)
Hypericum (Hypericum perforatum)
Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis)
Lime Blossom (Tilia europra)
Macadamia (Macadamia integrifolia and M. ternifolia)
Passion Flower (Passiflora incarnata)
Peach Kernel (Prunus persica)
Rose Hip (Rosa canina, R. mollis and Rosa rubignosa)
Wheatgerm (Triticum vulgare)
Almond Oil, Sweet (Prunus amygdalus var. dulcis)
Sweet almond is a very pale yellow fixed oil. It is extracted by
cold pressing the kernel (the softer part inside the hard outer
shell of the nut).
Sweet almond oil is rich in protein and contains vitamins A, B1, B2
and B6. It has a high percentage of mono- and polyunsaturated
fatty acids. As it contains a small amount of vitamin E, it keeps
fairly well.
Sweet almond oil protects and nourishes all skin types and has a
calming effect on skin irritations, helping to relieve itching,
soreness, dryness and inflammation. It can be used to make up to
100% of the mix.
WARNING!
An essential oil is produced from bitter almonds. This should
never be used in Aromatherapy because of the risk of prussic
acid (which is highly poisonous) forming during distillation.
Apricot Kernel Oil (Prunus armeniaca)
This yellow fixed oil is cold pressed from the kernel (the softer
part inside the hard outer shell of the nut). Compared to sweet
almond oil, apricot kernel is less viscous, lighter, has a longer shelf
life and is slightly more expensive.
Apricot kernel contains vitamin A and minerals and is particularly
useful for mature and dry skins but can be used on all skin types.
It is healing and nourishing and so helps to relieve itching,
soreness, dryness and inflammation. It can be used to make up to
100% of the mix.
Apricot kernel, peach kernel and sweet almond oils share a similar
chemical composition and therefore have similar uses. Apricot and
peach oils tend to be more expensive as they are not produced in
such quantities as sweet almond.
Avocado Oil (Persea americana)
Avocado oil is extracted from the dried flesh of the fruit. When
extracted by cold pressing, it is sticky and dark green with a
slight aroma. It may also have a cloudy appearance. Refined
avocado oil tends to be clear and pale yellow.
Avocado contains both saturated and monounsaturated fatty acids
and vitamins A, B and D. It is also rich in lecithin (a fatty
substance found in phosphorous and egg-yolk, used to emulsify
foods).
It is thought that, despite its viscosity, avocado oil can penetrate
the upper layers of the skin into the adipose tissue. It is especially
beneficial to itchy, dry, dehydrated skin and wrinkles and is
sometimes used in sun tan preparations. It can be used to make
up to about 25% of the mix.
Calendula Oil (Calendula officinalis)
Calendula oil is usually extracted from the flowers by maceration.
It contains vitamins A, B, D and E and minerals.
It is anti-inflammatory, anti-spasmodic, choleretic (increasing
bile production) and vulnerary (helps healing of wounds). Due to
these varied actions it is used on bedsores, broken veins, bruises,
inflammation of the gums, persistent ulcers, stubborn wounds and
varicose veins. It is also very effective on rashs, chapped and
cracked skin and so forms a good base when treating dry eczema.
As calendula is a macerated oil it can be used on its own. If, when
mixed with a basic carrier oil, it makes up less than 25% of the
mixture then the addition of extra essential oils becomes
important.
Calendula oil mixes especially well with the carrier hypericum,
and the effects are enhanced when the appropriate essential oil for
the condition is added.
Carrot Oil (Daucus carota)
Carrot is a macerated oil extracted from the root, although an
essential oil can be produced by the distillation of the seeds.
(Beware! Some oils termed ‘carrot’ do not actually originate from
the carrot and should not be used in Aromatherapy.)
Carrot oil is orange in colour and contains beta-carotene,
vitamins A, B, C, D and E and fatty acids. It is an effective
rejuvenator, delaying the ageing process, and can also be used
for burns, itching and dryness, psoriasis and eczema.
Carrot oil can stain and should only be used to make up to about
10% of the mixture. There are no contra-indications to the use of
carrot oil, although if excessive quantities of carrots (or carrot
juices) are eaten, hypervitaminosis can occur, causing the skin
to turn an orange colour. The body can become toxic, even
resulting in death.
Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera)
This oil does not occur naturally. The white flesh when pressed
produces an odorous, solid fat that has some therapeutic
properties. This fat is then heated and the resulting liquid on the
top is removed.
Due to this method of extraction and the fractionated (not whole)
end product, the use of this oil in Aromatherapy must be
questioned.
Coconut oil aids tanning and has an emollient (softening/
soothing) effect on the hair and skin but it causes a rash on some
people.
Evening Primrose Oil (Oenothera biennis)
This oil is pale yellow and is produced from the seed. It is rich in
linoleic acid (a polyunsaturated fatty acid) and also contains
gamma linoleic acid (GLA, said to reduce blood cholesterol).
Taken internally in capsule form, evening primrose oil is reputed
to be useful for preventing heart disease, reducing blood pressure,
decreasing hyperactivity in children, controlling arthritis, relieving
eczema and helping schizophrenia and pre-menstrual tension.
Used externally, it has been found to be excellent in the treatment
of psoriasis and eczema, dry, scaly skin and dandruff. It also
assists wound healing. It can be used to make up to about 10% of
the mix.
Grapeseed Oil (Vitis vinifera)
Grapeseed has a thin, non-greasy feel and has emollient
properties. It is yellow in colour, quickly absorbed, and is extracted
from the seed by hot extraction. Due to this method of extraction,
involving both heat and solvents, its worth to the Aromatherapist
must be questioned.
It contains a high percentage of linoleic acid (a polyunsaturated
fatty acid) and some vitamin E. It is suitable for all skin types and
leaves the skin feeling smooth without feeling greasy. It can be
used to make up to 100% of the mix.
Hazelnut Oil (Corylus avellana)
Hazelnut oil is yellow in colour and is extracted by cold pressing
the kernel (the softer part inside the hard outer shell of the nut).
The main component is oleic acid (a monounsaturated fatty acid),
along with a small proportion of linoleic acid (a polyunsaturated
fatty acid), vitamins and minerals.
Hazelnut oil is said to be able to slightly penetrate the top layer of
the skin. It is particularly beneficial for oily or combination skins
and effective on acne. It stimulates the circulation and has a slight
astringent action (causes the contraction of body tissues). It can be
used to make up to 100% of the mix.
Hypericum Oil (Hypericum perforatum)
Otherwise known as St. John’s Wort, hypericum is a ruby
coloured macerated oil extracted from the flowers. It contains
vitamins A, B, D and E and minerals.
Hypericum oil has an anti-inflammatory action, particularly on
inflamed nerves. It is therefore useful for cases of neuralgia,
sciatica and fibrositis as well as sprains, burns and bruises. It can
be used up to about 10% of the mix.
Hypericum oil mixes especially well with the carrier calendula, and
the effects are enhanced when an appropriate essential oil for the
condition is added.
Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis)
Jojoba is a liquid wax, not an oil. It is yellow and produced from
the bean. It is very stable and keeps well, but is quite expensive.
It contains vitamin E and myristic acid that has an anti-
inflammatory action. It has a fine texture, is highly penetrative and
is useful for inflamed skins, psoriasis, eczema, acne, rheumatism
and arthritis. It is usually used to make up 10% of the mix but can
be used up to 100% for very dry skins.
Lime Blossom Oil (Tilia europra)
This is a macerated oil extracted, not surprisingly, from the
blossom of the lime tree.
Lime blossom oil is effective in the fight against wrinkles, soothes
rheumatic pain and is relaxing.
Macadamia Oil (Macadamia integrifolia and M. ternifolia)
Macadamia oil is extracted by cold pressing the nut. It is fairly
stable, has a soft golden colour and a faint smell. The refined oil is
pale yellow and has no aroma.
It contains a high proportion of palmitoleic acid (a
monounsaturated fatty acid). Palmitoleic acid is present in sebum
(the fluid produced by the sebaceous glands in the skin) but
diminishes with age.
Not surprisingly, macadamia oil has anti-ageing properties and
softens and soothes the skin. It is also used in some sun
preparations.
WARNING!
This is a nut oil and so it is hyperallergenic.
Passion Flower Oil (Passiflora incarnata)
Passion flower oil is usually produced from the seeds by hot
extraction. It contains palmitoleic acid (a monounsaturated fatty
acid) and so it is useful for maintaining the elasticity of the skin and
has anti-ageing properties. It can be used to make up to 100% of
the mix.
Unlike the essential oil, it does not have anti-inflammatory or
narcotic properties.
Peach Kernel Oil (Prunus persica)
This oil is cold pressed from the kernel (the softer part inside the
hard outer shell of the nut). Peach kernel contains vitamins and
minerals and is good for all skin types. It is healing and
nourishing and helps to relieve itching, soreness, dryness and
inflammation. It can be used to make up to 100% of the mix.
Peach, apricot and sweet almond oils share a similar chemical
composition and therefore have similar uses. Peach and apricot
oils tend to be more expensive as they are not produced in such
quantities as sweet almond.
Rose Hip Oil (Rosa canina, R. mollis)
Rose Hip oil is a golden red colour and is produced from the fruit
often using solvents. It has a high unsaturated fatty acid content
and has been shown to regenerate tissues. It is also effective on
scars, wounds, burns, sunburn, eczema and ageing.
Rose Hip Oil (Rosa rubignosa)
Rose hip oil from the species Rosa rubignosa is high in
unsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E. It is thought to decrease old
scarring and pigmentation. It also contains palmitoleic acid that is
present in sebum (the fluid produced by the sebaceous glands in
the skin). It therefore has anti-ageing properties but is contra-
indicated to acne or greasy skins.
Wheatgerm Oil (Triticum vulgare)
Wheatgerm oil is cold pressed from the seed. It is an orange
colour, has a nutty aroma and contains protein, vitamins and
minerals. Wheatgerm oil is stable, due to its high vitamin E
content, and so can be used to increase the shelf life of less stable
oils. It is a heavy oil and is usually mixed with a basic carrier so
that it makes up to 10% of the mix.
Wheatgerm oil is particularly useful on dry and mature skins but,
due to the protein content, it could be contra-indicated for anyone
prone to allergies. It is also contra-indicated against gluten
intolerance.
Blending
This chart may help you to get to grips with the other
measurements you may see quoted.
1ml = 20 drops
2ml = 40 drops
3ml = 60 drops
4ml = 80 drops
5ml = 100 drops = 1 teaspoon
10ml = 200 drops = 1 dessertspoon
15ml = 300 drops = 1 tablespoon
30ml = 600 drops = 1 fluid ounce
500ml = 10000 drops = 1 pint
Now we have looked at the various measurements, here’s a chart
that can be used as a guideline for blending:
Essential oil (drops)
(minimum-maximum)
Carrier oil (ml), lotion (ml)
or cream (g)
1-3 5
2-6 10
3-9 15
4-12 20
5-15 25
6-18 30
