Formulating natural cosmetics - record and labelling requirements

Making your own cosmetics using Shirley Price cosmetic bases

You can read the new cosmetics regulations in full here.  Nothing to trouble most aromatherapists but you need to be organised and read the regulations when making up creams for sale to clients or as christmas gifts.

New Regulations in full

Section 19 needs to be read in full and is set out below after points to note.

Points to Note 

1.  Most organic cosmetics bases have a durability of 24 months which is less than the 30 months stipulated in section 19 so you need to add the words 'best used before the end of' or  the hourglass symbol in point 3 of annex VII.

2.  over 30 months an indication of the durability after opening is required preceded by the open pot symbol in point 2 of Annex VII.

3.  The precautions to be found in annexes III to VI must be included.

4.  Ingredients must be proceeded by the word 'ingredients' though this information can be on the packaging.  The list of ingredients shall be established in descending order of weight of the ingredients at the time they are added to the cosmetic product. Ingredients in concentrations of less than 1 % may be listed in any order after those in concentrations of more than 1 %.

5.  Function must be included on the label unless it is obvious

Article 19 in full

Labelling
1.
Without prejudice to other provisions in this Article, cosmetic products shall be made available on the market only where the container and packaging of cosmetic products bear the following information in indelible, easily legible and visible lettering:
(a)
the name or registered name and the address of the responsible person. Such information may be abbreviated in so far as the abbreviation makes it possible to identify that person and his address. If several addresses are indicated, the one where the responsible person makes readily available the product information file shall be highlighted. The country of origin shall be specified for imported cosmetic products;
L342/72 EN
Official Journal of theEuropean Union L 342/73
(b)
the nominal content at the time of packaging, given by weight or by volume, except in the case of packaging containing less than five grams or five millilitres, free samples and single-application packs; for pre-packages normally sold as a number of items, for which details of weight or volume are not significant, the content need not be given provided the number of items appears on the packaging. This information need not be given if the number of items is easy to see from the outside or if the product is normally only sold individually;
(c)
the date until which the cosmetic product, stored under appropriate conditions, will continue to fulfil its initial function and, in particular, will remain in conformity with Article 3 (‘date of minimum durability’).
The date itself or details of where it appears on the packaging shall be preceded by the symbol shown in point 3 of Annex VII or the words: ‘best used before the end of’.
The date of minimum durability shall be clearly expressed and shall consist of either the month and year or the day, month and year, in that order. If necessary, this information shall be supplemented by an indication of the conditions which must be satisfied to guarantee the stated durability.
Indication of the date of minimum durability shall not be mandatory for cosmetic products with a minimum durability of more than 30 months. For such products, there shall be an indication of the period of time after opening for which the product is safe and can be used without any harm to the consumer. This information shall be indicated, except where the concept of durability after opening is not relevant, by the symbol shown in point 2 of Annex VII followed by the period (in months and/or years);
(d)
particular precautions to be observed in use, and at least those listed in Annexes III to VI and any special precautionary information on cosmetic products for professional use;
(e)
the batch number of manufacture or the reference for identifying the cosmetic product. Where this is impossible for practical reasons because the cosmetic products are too small, such information need appear only on the packaging;
(f)
the function of the cosmetic product, unless it is clear from its presentation;
(g)
a list of ingredients. This information may be indicated on the packaging alone. The list shall be preceded by the term‘ingredients’.
For the purpose of this Article, an ingredient means any substance or mixture intentionally used in the cosmetic product during the process of manufacturing. The following shall not, however, be regarded as ingredients:
(i)
impurities in the raw materials used;
(ii)
subsidiary technical materials used in the mixture but not present in the final product.
Perfume and aromatic compositions and their raw materials shall be referred to by the terms ‘parfum’ or ‘aroma’. Moreover, the presence of substances, the mention of which is required under the column ‘Other’ in Annex III, shall be indicated in the list of ingredients in addition to the terms parfum or aroma.
The list of ingredients shall be established in descending order of weight of the ingredients at the time they are added to the cosmetic product. Ingredients in concentrations of less than 1 % may be listed in any order after those in concentrations of more than 1 %.

All ingredients present in the form of nanomaterials shall be clearly indicated in the list of ingredients. The names of such ingredients shall be followed by the word ‘nano’ in brackets.
Colorants other than colorants intended to colour the hair may be listed in any order after the other cosmetic ingredients. For decorative cosmetic products marketed in several colour shades, all colorants other than colorants intended to colour the hair used in the range may be listed, provided that the words ‘may contain’ or the symbol ‘+/-’ are added. The CI (Colour Index) nomenclature shall be used, where applicable.

2.
Where it is impossible for practical reasons to label the information mentioned in points (d) and (g) of paragraph 1 as provided, the following applies:
—
the information shall be mentioned on an enclosed or attached leaflet, label, tape, tag or card; —
unless impracticable, this information shall be referred to by abbreviated information or the symbol given in point 1 of Annex VII, which must appear on the container or packaging for the information referred in point (d) of paragraph 1 and on packaging for the information referred in point (g) of paragraph 1.

3.
In the case of soap, bath balls and other small products where it is impossible for practical reasons for the information referred to in point (g) of paragraph 1 to appear on a label, tag, tape or card or in an enclosed leaflet, this information shall appear on a notice in immediate proximity to the container in which the cosmetic product is exposed for sale.
22.12.2009 EN
Official Journal of theEuropean Union 22.12.2009

4.
For cosmetic products that are not pre-packaged, are packaged at the point of sale at the purchaser’s request, or are pre-packaged for immediate sale, Member States shall adopt detailed rules for indication of the information referred to in paragraph 1.

5.
The language of the information mentioned in points (b), (c), (d) and (f) of paragraph 1 and in paragraphs (2), (3) and (4) shall be determined by the law of the Member States in which the product is made available to the end user.

6.
The information mentioned in point (g) of paragraph 1 shall be expressed by using the common ingredient name set out in the glossary provided for in Article 33. In the absence of a common ingredient name, a term as contained in a generally accepted nomenclature shall be used.

Essentia

Formulating natural cosmetics - Anthony C Dweck

one for the technical library

http://www.alluredbooks.com/Formulating-Natural-Cosmetics-p112.html

This reference provides a concise overview for both formulator and marketer of much of the chemistry of the natural world—the materials that inspire and aid the discovery of new product concepts and markets. This volume looks at the entire portfolio of natural raw materials and explains in simple terms the chemistry, the folklore and traditional uses that nature has provided.
For the first time, information has been assembled on almost 300 fixed oils, 200 essential oils and 600 botanical extracts, making this a useful handbook and companion for anybody who requires a quick overview of this subject.

There is also a wealth of toxicological information assembled in this volume. The extensive section on color brings together knowledge and chemistry that is comprehensive and detailed and rarely found in one place.

Topics include:

• Natural vegetable and fixed oils
• Natural butters
• Natural waxes
• Saponins (emulsifier)
• Natural Preservatives
• Minerals
• Botanical extracts
• Essential oils (fragrance)
• Natural actives
• Isoflavones, phytohormones and phytosterols
• Anti-irritants
• Natural color
• Gemmotherapy
• Legal Issues

Expert Review

“I have long admired Tony Dweck's combined chemical, botanical and medical knowledge. The comprehensive library of plant reference books he has authored, which are regularly purchased and read, along with his personal experience of working for the cosmetic industry, writing for cosmetic journals and conferences, and his famous Dweck Database, make him the author of choice for a book titled Formulating Natural Cosmetics.
The naturals are covered in 14 chapters that the Latin names of plants in alphabetical order followed by their respective trivial names. There is also a chapter on minerals and another that covers legal issues associated with formulation, followed by four appendices covering toxicity of essential oils (tabulated data); natural color review (tabulated data such as natural source, supplier, trade name, etc.); scrubs and abrasives; and finally a glossary of medical terms. There is an index and, where necessary, chemical formulae illustrate the text.
This is not a book given over to literature references; had these been required, the book would never have been finished. What we have is a comprehensive, easy-to-read and clearly classified reference book of value not only to those associated with the cosmetic industry, but to all those needing information about plants for any reason."

—Roland Hardman
BPharm BSc(Chem) PhD FRPharmS
Reader in Pharmacognosy, University of Bath, UK (retired)

"Formulating Natural Cosmetics is a brilliantly done work that is a great addition to every technical library.”
—Tony O’Lenick
President of Siltech LLC and author of Organic Chemistry for Cosmetic Chemists

http://www.dweckdata.com/

Remembrance Day 2011

On Sunday we in Europe and all over the world stop our day to day concerns, even aromatherapy, and remember the dead of two world wars

We wear poppies to remember that time of disastrous european and world disunion.

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
      Between the crosses, row on row,
   That mark our place; and in the sky
   The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
   Loved and were loved, and now we lie,
         In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
   The torch; be yours to hold it high.
   If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
         In Flanders fields.

Its a time to reflect for me personally and to remember the memorial chapel at Rugby School in which I prayed and became a christian.  On the walls are comemorated the names of 700 from the school who died in the first war and 450 from the second war.  Remembering that for every one killed 4 were injured or maimed and all were touched and affected by their experiences it is a place which never fails to move me now as it did then. A bronze of a second lieutenant of the Warwickshire Rifles leaning on his rifle seemed to capture the mood of the place.

Some 200 children go through Rugby School a year.  My own children were prepared for public school.   So this toll meant the loss of an entire generation who benefitted from this education morally and materially. In turn they would have benefitted those who they would have served and loved and this was lost too.  When I think of the lives of leadership, love and illumination my wonderful friends of my generation lead as businessmen, sportsmen, politicians, servicemen, husbands, fathers and sons and the benefit I and we received from this education the scale of the sacrifice and loss can be seen.

We Brits are known for our humour and love of life and like all europeans we were prepared to combine and serve in that terrible time.  This was not a people long ago but us, all of us today then resolving our different ambitions not with words but with guns and loss.  Success cannot be measured for long by the losses of others yet for those terrible years it was and no one was able to prevent it or stop it.

We cannot forget the torch the dead lit referred to in the poem and the value the settlement their deaths brought not just for 100 years but for much longer than that.  More fool us if we do.

"mistake not truce for peace, nor compromise from the escape from conflict.  To be released from conflict means that it is over.  The door is open you have left the battleground.  You have not lingered there in cowering hope that it will not return because the guns are stilled an instant and the fear that haunts the place of death is not apparent.  There is no safety in a battleground.  Not one tree left still standing will shelter you."

A course in miracles 

The wars of the people were more terrible than the wars of the kings.  lets not forget that either.

Essentia

Essential oils for acute bronchitis

Recommended link

Organic Shampoo project

I have an organic shampoo. handwash, showergel project on for an eastern european customer so I get to do all the things we have been toying with.  We use the organic bases.  The brief is fruity aroma and then the functional areas normal, oily, dry.  So its familiar territory.  One line of thinking is to drench this with 5-7 essential oils for each shampoo.  I would like to add a sythetic adldehyde but this is a wholly natural shampoo, or as near as nature as we can get.  So what would you recommend?  Rose and Jasmine are out but how about vetiver as a base?  The trouble with vetiver is that it is a very strong aroma.  You can smell little else. Here is a company who have been wrestling with balancing differant fragrances since 1854.  They recently added an organic range of oils.    Payan Bertrand

On the packaging we are using the white hdpe rectangular bottles 150ml, 200ml with gold and silver dawn and dusk) flip ups for the shampoos.  I dont think we will be printing the bottles as this is a relatively low volume production run.  Still the rectangulars look nice with a simple Soil Association logo in the bottom left and the cut out label in the middle with a backing label.

The Shirley Price classic shampoos follow simple functional lines.  For a long time we couldnt do much with the bases as a human error led to us receiving a pallet of drums instead of a single drum! We still have some left of this base which is popular in asia.

look out for our soapmaking event with Jan Benham on May 27th

Essentia

Shirley Price Aromatherapy for Common Ailments, FREE! Aromawipes, courses

On our therapists website we list Shirley Price's formulations for common ailments

www.ShirleyPrice.net

For the festive season we are giving a free aromawipe with products ordered.  The aromawipes contain the 10 most commonly used essential oils like Bergamot Essential Oil.

Bergamot -

Reviving and encouraging the essential oil has an uplifting harmonising effect on the spirit, refreshing and emotionally balancing the emotions and the mind, perfect when you need to go from stressed out to blissed out!

our factory aromashop website is
www.NiceAroma.co.uk

upcoming ShirleyPrice courses 

Join 6000+ students who have qualified with Shirley Price and the satelite colleges in 40 countries worldwide.

Essentia

Xmas offers on Shirley Price Organic - free aromawipes

With 2 new products listed at once I thought why not give one free?

Shirley Price Organic White lotion, now with free Aromawipe of your choice, Shirley Price Organic Shower gel-bodywash with matching Aromawipe.

The |Organic white lotion comes in a stylish rectangular bottle with a silver lotion cap for our pharmacy customers.  Definite shelf appeal!

Essentia

Exercise you can do sitting down

This is a fun gadget for christmas from Forbes Riley.  Also a good example of professional and successful product marketing.

https://www.buyspingym.com/index.html

Essentia

Diet - how do plant oils help us?

OMEGA 3,6.  There are three essential fatty acids which are needed by the body and only available from our diet.  These are linoleic acid (LA or Omega 6) and linolenic acid (LNA or Omega 3) which are all commonly contained in plant oils.  Research suggests we need more linolenic acid.  The essential fatty acid alpha-linolenic, an omega 3 fatty acid is found in linseed and soybean.  Other important omega 3 oils EPA and DHA are found in fish. LA from which the body makes arachidonic acid can be found in soybean, safflower, sunflower, corn, wheatgerm and seasame oils. 

VITAMINS.  Oils are a good source of natural vitamin E and help the body absorb the fat soluble Vitamins A,D, E and K. 

COLD PRESS.  Cold pressed oils are preferred as high temperatures alter the oils and may make them unhealthy. Cold pressed olive oil contains high levels of monounsaturated fatty acids which do not adversely effect blood cholesterol.

So a little oil drizzled on salad and a fish supplement does you good.

Essentia


 

Training dates and news on Facebook

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Shirley-Price-Aromatherapy/108021325904692?ref=mf

Essentia

WORKSHOP AND CPD DAYS for Shirley Price Aromatherapy 2011

Besides the private aromatherapy diploma tuition, distance learning and residential aromatherapy diploma tuition we have an active program of complementary therapy and cosmetology courses.

Venue is 55 Station Road Hinckley

Course Tutor Jan Benham

WORKSHOP AND CPD DAYS for Shirley Price Aromatherapy 2011

Introduction to Aromatherapy.

Discover the essential world of aromatic oils. What are essential oils? How are they are obtained? How can you tell if they are 100% pure? What is the difference between therapeutic grade and the rest?

Blend and mix to your hearts delight, create your own recipes. Learn about the various effects of these essences, both physically and psychologically, the application of essential oils and safety                   considerations, plus information on the most useful essential oils and carrier oils.

Course date Jan 12th, 

Course fee £90 pounds

Reflexology and Aromatherapy for the elderly.

Venue:  Hinckley

Tutor: Jan Benham

Using Reflexology, Thai massage and Aromatherapy techniques to improve the circulation throughout the body

Geared for treating the elderly, this treatment is especially helpful for swollen ankles and legs, knee problems, and varicose veins. Balancing and relaxing the entire body from head to toe.

Course date: Jan 13th

Course fee:  £90

Neck and shoulder release.

VENUE:  HINCKLEY

TUTOR:  JAN BENHAM

This workshop teaches massage of the neck and shoulders focusing on relaxation techniques.

Also included is posture alignment with gentle stretching exercises, specific areas of concern will be addressed with essential oil therapy

Course date:  Feb 26th 

Course fee: £90

Cellulite and Detox

VENUE:  HINCKLEY

TUTOR:  JAN BENHAM

A fun filled spa  two days where the participants receive and give each other the following treatments, algae and aromatherapy body wraps plus body scrubs. You will be making cellulite and fat reduction creams, oils , lotions and bath saltys. There will be weight loss and body shaping programs given along with slomming massage and nutritional tips

Course dates:  Feb 27^th and 28^th 

Course fee:  £180

Absolutely Fabulous Abs

VENUE: HINCKLEY

TUTOR: JAN BENHAM

This workshop focuses on reshaping the stomach and waistline with massage, exercise. Compresses and essential oil therapy. But, it is not all about fat, health issues of the digestive tract such as constipation will also be covered.

Course date: March 1^st 

Course fee: £90

Qi drop therapy

Qi drop therapy is a method of applying neat essential oils to the spine, legs and feet using acupressure, massage and compress techniques to bring balance to the whole system. It works on energy alignment, the movement of Qi throughout the body, straightens the spine and fights viruses. Qi drop therapy incorporates the use of 13 essential oils/blends of therapeutic strength.

Course date: March 3^rd 

Course fee:  £95 pounds

Creamy craft of cosmetic making

Tired of using commercial cosmetics that bathe your body in chemicals and wreck havoc on your skin? In this fun but practical workshop, learn how to make your own creams, lotions, lip balms, ointments. Each practitioner will have the opportunity to make something different, and at the end of the class we will share the results. Find out how to mix the essential oils to discover the cream that reflects you.

Course date: March 4^th 

Course fee: 125 pounds

Advanced Holistic Facials leading to a Aroma Cosmetology Diploma

Pre requisite: -Aromatherapy module 4 or Beauty Therapist/specialist

VENUE:  HINCKLEY

TUTOR: JAN BENHAM

Designed for the student who is just starting out to the professional  Aromatherapist who wants to expand her practice and add new dimensions to her work. This course allows for treatment control without having to rely upon specific brands, with the making up of your own preparations and products. Learn how to rely less on machines and take a holistic  approach, with the use of special massage techniques and essential oils.

Practical: you will be taught a full cleanse, the use of  compresses and steam, how to set up a treatment room, filling out client record sheets, a full 20 minute face and shoulder massage using both eastern and western techniques, and treatment with masks.

Theory:  the basic principles of skin care, analysis of skin types, carrier oils, and the most common essential and carrier oils used in treatment.

Also covered aroma solutions for skin care, with   emphasis on anti ageing treatments, clinical and home care treatments for teenage acne, eczema, acne rosacea, and sensitive skin, our famous  neck and skin firming treatments. Plus the blending and mixing of essential oils in creams, lotions, oils, masks (including fruit facials) and compresses.

Course dates: May 16^th to May 20^th   

Course fee:  5 days £450

Hot Stone massage

VENUE: HINCKLEY

TUTOR: JAN BENHAM

Hot stone treatment combines the use of hot and cold stones with Swedish massage strokes. Chakra awareness is increased through stone placement and the use of essential oils. This treatment is extremely grounding and provides an unforgettable mind, body and spirit connection.

This is a course that will suit both students who are just starting out to   holistic practitioners who wish to expand their knowledge.

You will learn the 12 meridians and the basic techniques that are used doing massage with the basalt stones. Care and maintenance of the stones, gathering techniques and temperature levels will also be  covered

Course dates:  May 23^rd and May 24^th 

Course fee £180

Polarity 

VENUE: HINCKLEY

TUTOR: JAN BENHAM

Polarity is the science of balancing the life energy in the body. The entire body is viewed as an energy field with specific circuits and patterns or currents. These  currents originally built the body and continue to operate until we leave it. Disease occurs when these currents short-circuit or get blocked by our emotions and stress, pollution, the world we live in etc. All body currents have an electric charge, either positive, negative or neutral. By understanding the relationships of the different currents and their charges, we can then proceed to balance them with our mind, body and spirit. This accomplished by the gentle contact of our hands, using love, positive thoughts and attitudes, manipulations, exercise and diet.

In this course you will learn about the five elements ether, air, fire, earth and water, how to activate and balance them with gentle manipulations. This course gives added understanding to why the body works the way it does, why does one person respond to Thai yoga massage, whilst another person needs gentle lymphatic drainage massage or Qi drop therapy?

May 25^th and 26^th 

Course fee £180

The art of soap making 

VENUE: HINCKLEY

TUTOR: JAN BENHAM

Join Jan, for a class in making Aromatherapy, herbal and vegetable based soaps. Together we shall make an excellent basic herbal soap recipe and a batch of surprise exotic soap. We shall explore different ingredients, methods and sources that you might use to make a variety of exciting soaps. Learn some troubleshooting tips, a few historical tidbits and some ways of decorating /icing your soaps. Please bring your most outrageous apron and cool eye protection (sunglasses will do).

May 27^th 

Course fee £90

June 4^th Module 4

Natural mineral makeup

VENUE: HINCKLEY

TUTOR: JAN BENHAM

Come and learn how to make your own mineral makeup,  using all natural ingredients. Let Jan show you healthy     alternatives to the toxic chemicals that are present in most mainstream cosmetics. Why risk long term health problems or allow these chemicals to dry and damage your skin? In comparison, mineral makeup nourishes your skin whilst   enhancing your looks.

There are two workshops; natural makeup and mineral makeup. In the mineral makeup workshop you'll learn how to make your own natural foundation, blushers and eye shadows. In the natural makeup workshop you’ll learn how to make your own mascara, lipsticks, lip gloss, eye and lip  pencils.

Imagine the pleasure of wearing makeup crafted specifically to enhance your features. Imagine the satisfaction of making cosmetics. Imagine the security of knowing you’re applying healthy substances onto your skin.

Turn these skills into an enjoyable hobby, as you create   cosmetics for family and business, giving them unique and treasured gifts. This could even be the start of a business  opportunity if you want to turn craft into cash.

Mineral makeup class June 7^th 

Course fee £95

Natural makeup class June 8^th 

Course fee £95

Thai reflex and foot massage

VENUE HINCKLEY

TUTOR JAN BENHAM                                    

Join us in a workshop that incorporates the use of  thai reflexology and foot massage. Here you will learn how to use acupressure techniques on the feet that balance and tone internal organs and bring balance to the whole body. Besides the healthy stuff, this is a fun way to relax and release stress.

June 19^th 

Course fee: £90

Thai Yoga Massage level 1 

Venue: Hinckley

TUTOR: JAN BENHAM

 Thai Yoga Massage is an ancient healing art form that can be traced back to India 2,500 years ago. It is a  holistic therapy that is commonly called  “yoga for lazy people” as complex stretches are used. It has the properties of yoga, shiatsu, reflexology and acupressure all rolled into a flowing form. Students will learn how to perform a full massage in the Northern Traditional Thai Massage style. Positions learned: supine and sitting.

Dates:  June 20^th to 24^th 

Course fee £450

 Essentia

A quote for our skeptical friends

"Science is intrigued and challenged by the inexplicable not threatened"

Essentia

What is Shirley Price Aromatherapy 'Everyday organic' shampoo made of

The appearance of the hair is very important.  More and more questions are asked is there a natural organic alternative to conventional shampoos which are very efficient cleansers but which strip the scalp of its acid mantle.  Yes there is.



The Shirley Price Organic Shampoo Base Ingredients are: Aqua, Decyl glucoside, Lauryl betaine, Xanthan gum,Aloe barbadensis leaf Juice Powder*, Phenoxyethanol, Citric acid, Benzoic acid, Dehydroacetic acid *Certified Organic 70.2% organic ingredients


500ml of Shirley Price care For Hair 'Everyday organic' shampoo base costs £7.95.  This compares to £36.50 per litre from conventional designer shampoos like Frederic Fekkai (£31 a litre), Phillip Kingsley (£36.50 a litre), L'Oreal (£34 a litre).  Another conventional shampoo is Elvive Colour Protect (£9.60 a litre).  


They are great but none of them are organic.  Add essential oils as required like Shirley Price french or tuscan organic lavender for a relaxing evening shampoo or a citrus zesty shampoo for the morning wash.


Typical non natural normal shampoo ingredients found in these shampoos include:


Sodium laureth sulphate: the main detergent
Disodium cocoamphodiacetate: secondary detergent
Dimethicone: similar to silicone, helps shampoo glide through the hair
Glycol distearate: a thickening agent
Sodium chloride: common salt helps bind ingredients together and thickens the shampoo
Cetyl alcohol: makes shampoo feel thicker and softer, helps bind other ingredients
Cocamidopropyl betaine: another cleansing agent
Gylcol stearate: used to give shampoo a pearly sheen
Cocamide mea: thickens shampoo and creates foam
Cocamide dea: thickens shampoo and creates foam
Polyquaternium II: has antistatic properties that binds water to hair


Shirley Price Care For Hair 'Everday organic' shampoo is packaged in a stylish rectangular bottle.  


Essentia